Re: ".there is no universal, foolproof solution for muting an audio signal": A swift machete blow to the cable is usually pretty effective. Particularly as more and more hardware uses small surface mounted devices instead of larger, discrete components, but that's just me. Run that wire up and hook up to one side of the switch, then. Then go splice into the BLACK (HOT) wire of the AC comming into the cabinet before it goes to the Power Supply or anything else. Just drill out your hole and install whatever switch you want to use. Personally, I think it's always prudent to respect the minimum load impedance specification for any output stage. I always wire my on/off switches on the top right of the cabinet. The more expensive and "boutique" devices are the ones most likely to not like being driven into a short. Apparently the designers believe that these devices will be used with appropriate loads and not operated into a short or into a "Y" cable connected to another output. But it is true that there is no universal, foolproof solution for muting an audio signal.True, most designers do include some sort of current limiting, either a series resistor or a current limited op amp, but some high-end mic pres do not. Typically we design in series resistance to raise the output impedance and those "build-out" resistors protect the actual circuit from shorting. I've never encountered a line-level output that wasn't explicitly or inherently short-circuit protected. Radial Engineering also makes one (the ABi) which includes an option for dropping the signal level (adding a pad) as well as complete latching mute.īuilding your own is a nice, simple DIY project, and might save a few dollars if you don't cost-out the time it takes. SESCOM makes a nice version that can be used for muting or to switch between two sources as an A/B switch. The second schematic is intended for use with Phantom-powered mic inputs, and will mute the audio without causing a switching transient by removing Phantom-power. It will insure that no overload of the output circuit occurs. It's possible to do this with a DPDT switch that breaks the (2) lines and then grounds both of the lines going to the device being fed to eliminate possible noise due to a "open" input.Īddendum: The first schematic attached is for use with line outputs only. Both signal lines must be broken to mute the connection. A balanced XLR connection does not carry a "positive and neutral" signal, it carries balanced positive and negative signal(s) with a common or "neutral" for both plus a shield. Will this work and is there a better way you know of to do this ?If it's a balanced connection (a balanced line feed but not a phantom powered mic input), you should interrupt both the positive and negative leads. This thinking will help you as you visualize the float switch connection and apply. I'm currently figuring to solder ground and nuetral terminals direct from XLR male to XLR female and then run the positive line through a SPST latching foot switch. Remember that what youre wiring is a means of turning things on and off. I need to Wire an External XLR On/Off Switch Pedal.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |